Introduction
It was unexpectedly
we (blogger and friend) planned our voyage to Coorg (Kodagu) at Karnataka
district, India. The prime objective of our journey was to find a suitable
place for our destination management programme at Coorg. It was quite blank
about the tourist destinations, weather, places, and people at Coorg. The
previous day of our journey we spend our evening at Calicut in Kerala. While we
were at Calicut we tried to know more about Coorg. We searched and found many
tourist destinations like parks, waterfalls, heritage etc. at coorg and among
them most attractive was the Tibetan Settlement at Bylekuppe, Kushal Nagar.
Voyage
to Coorg
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| Starting our journey from NCK Tourist Home Kozhikode |
On 28th
May 2016, early morning we said farewell to Calicut and started our dream
journey to Coorg. There was heavy monsoon rain in Kerala, but once we crossed
the border the rain disappeared. In the afternoon
we reached Columbus Retreat a Nature Oriented Resort at Kushal Nagar, Coorg.
Actually it is not a resort or hotel; it is jungle house where we can
experience the wonders of Nature. The resort was very strange; a half completed
building in European style with a dormitory, 5 rooms and conference hall. It is
constructed in Kerala architect style with “Nadumuttam.” The Nadumuttam has the
common entrance to all the rooms and conference hall. All the rooms and conference
halls are fully furnished with modern equipments. One side of the conference
hall there is huge statue of Buddha which made in Tibetan Style. The resort
campus is about 5 acre land with full of trees like Bamboo, Jackfruit, Silver
Rock, Mango, Pomegranate, Orange, Chikku etc. There is also a vegetable garden
where the resort staff themselves cultivate pure organic vegetables. It is
small jungle in the middle of Kushal Nagar Town.
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| We are with Mr. Renjith Resort Manager |
After our lunch
we moved for sightseeing to Dubera Elephant camp along with the resort manager
Mr. Renjith. Dubare is about 16 KM away from Kushal Nagar. The roads are pretty
good but, there are many street buffalos walking around the road and it makes sudden
accidents. Kushal Nagr Town is sweet busy town with many buildings, bus stations,
Hotels and other markets. We can also see many monks in the town.
One the way to
Dubare, we discussed about the business scope and potential of this unknown
resort. Meanwhile Mr. Renjith revealed the beautiful and mysterious story
behind the existence of this resort.
Story
of Mr.Columbus from Switzerland
 |
| Mr. Columbus |
Mr. Renjith narrated the story like
this: “Once upon a time a traveler, Mr. Columbus came to India, to spend his
retired life. He has great desire to establish a nature oriented resort in
India and spend rest of his life in the resort. The Voyager has traveled all
throughout India to find suitable location for his resort. Finally he found a
suitable place near Golden Temple, Kushal Nagar at Kodagu (Coorg) to actualize his
dream choice.
Hence, in the year 2005 he has
purchased 5 acre agriculture field with the help of an auto rickshaw driver and transformed the ordinary land into a small jungle with
lots of trees, valleys, natural rivers, fish ponds, pools etc. His vision was
to protect and preserve the last remaining of natural essence on earth and
thereby safeguard our vital water sources as well as the planet’s rich
biodiversity of both flora and fauna for ourselves and future generation. There
was lots of tree like bamboos, orange, chikku, jackfruit, various verities
of mangoes etc. etc. He has also constructed a small building in the
campus without affecting the natural diversity of the land. During the vacation,
his family from Switzerland came to the resort to enjoy the natural beauty.
 |
| Wife of Mr. Columbus with servant |
The foreigner was attracted on the
Buddhist concept and the proximity of Golden Temple at Bylekuppe. He has great
desire to build a small Buddhist temple inside the resort. With the help and
assistance of Tibetans he has created a beautiful temple inside the resort. He
has successfully implemented the Responsible Tourism activities in the resort
without affecting the nature. But, in the year 2009 he has been paralyzed due
to a severe stroke and all his dreams were shattered. Then the resort was
abandoned without continuing the natural environmental process was made by the
traveler…. Later on Mr. Sunil, the present owner purchased this land and
started revives the same to its old glory” Mr. Renjith completed the story.
We felt that the story was very
interesting and we further tried to know the name and details of traveler
including his pictures. At last the former security of the resort revealed
“Columbus” as his name, but still it is uncertain about his family details and
present life. Through the security we found the servant who was working in the resort.
She provides us the pictures of Mr. Columbus and his wife. This story inspired
us to revive the resort to its previous magnificent period. Hence, we have
selected this resort as our location for Destination Management Programme.
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| Columbus Retreat Resort, Coorg |
We don’t know what happened to Mr.
Columbus once he left to Switzerland, anyway we believe that his soul is
remaining in the valleys of Columbus Retreat and would like to continue
the process which was broken on the middle way. So as the first initiative we have
given his name for the resort as “Columbus Retreat.”
Dubare Elephant Camp
 |
| We are at Dubare Elephant Camp |
Dubare is known for its elephant camp, a forest
camp on the banks of the river Kaveri. This is a project undertaken by forest department and
Jungle Lodges and Resorts Ltd. This camp has plenty of elephants which are
trained under naturalists. A trained Naturalist is at hand to explain the
various aspects of Elephant history, ecology and biology. The visitor can not
only observe and learn but also participate in various activities involving
Elephants.
 |
| Dubare Elephant Camp |
The Karnataka Forest Department has
about 150 Elephants in various camps and Dubare has been historically an
important camp. The Elephants for the famous Mysore Dasara were trained at
Dubare elephant camp. But presently after logging operations have ceased, the
Forest Department does not really know what to do with all its elephants! They
(elephants) have been practically retired except for giving some rides to
odd tourists. At the same time, the Forest Department spends quite some money
to maintain them and their mahouts. With this as a background, Jungle Lodges
& Resorts (JLR) has struck upon a unique idea to utilize the Elephants at
Dubare Camp to provide the tourists with ‘an intimate experience with
Elephants’. JLR seeks to build upon the unending fascination that man has for
Elephants!
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| At Dubare with students from Manipoor University |
At the Dubare Elephant Camp, a
visitor can spend hours simply watching Elephants and of course, learning more
about them. The visitor can not only observe and learn but also participate in
various activities involving Elephants. Guests would leave the camp feeling
enriched and enlightened about Elephants and hopefully they would become
sensitive to their plight in the wild and join the lobby to save them from
extinction. JLR is acutely aware of its role of spreading awareness about
conservation and takes its responsibility seriously about converting its visitors
into ‘ambassadors of conservation’. Dubare Elephant camp would be a unique
project not only for JLR but in the whole of India. JLR seeks to be a trend–setter
in this niche area and create an eco-tourism product which would be an
invaluable contribution to the cause of understanding and conserving these
amazing creatures, the Elephants.
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| Crossing the River Kaveri at Dubare |
The
moist deciduous forests of Dubare are home to many wild animals and birds.
Sightings of wild Asiatic elephants are
regular and so is spotting the sambhar, the
spotted deer, tigers, leopards, wild dogs, and gaur. Bears are also seen in these forests. Crocodiles
can be seen in the river. The forests are also home to many reptiles and
non-venomous snakes.
Evening
by 5.30 pm we left the Dubare. We returned to Columbus Retreat.
Arrival Mr. Sanjay Rabtten
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| Meeting with Lama Sanjay Rabttan at Columbus Retreat |
Our second aim was to visit Golden
Temple and Tibetan Settlement at Bylekuppe. It was quite unfortunate on that
day Mr. Sanjay Rabttan, a monk from Golden Temple visited Columbus Retreat. Later
during our discussion with monk we realized that he was a constant visitor to
the resort during the period of Mr. Columbus. He too said many good things
about the foreigner and his vast vision on the nature oriented responsible
tourism. Further when he returned from the resort the monk invited us to Golden
Temple.
Breakfast from Salman Bhai's Shop
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| Having our breakfast at Salman Bhai's Shop |
The morning we had our breakfast from Salim Bhai's shop. The tea shop is situated beside the road to Golden Temple. Salman Bhai is very good cook, we can get fresh Dosa, Masala Dosa, Iddaly, with chadni, Bugi etc. from this shop. Salman Bhai is the son of security at Columbus Retreat.
Visit to Golden Temple
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| In-front of Golden Temple |
The Wikipedia narration goes like this:-
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| Golden Temple at Coorg |
Let’s see the narration by Wikipedia
on this Monastery.
The Namdroling Nyingmapa Monastery (or Thekchog Namdrol Shedrub Dargye Ling) is the largest teaching
center of the Nyingma lineage of Tibetan Buddhism in the world.
Located
in Bylakuppe, part
of the Mysore district of the state of Karnataka, the
monastery is home to a sangha community
of over five thousand lamas (both monks and nuns), a religious college (or shedra) and
hospital.
History of Golden Temple
The
monastery was established by throne-holder Kyabje Penor Rinpoche in 1963, following his 1959 exit from
Tibet as the second seat of the Palyul Monastery,
one of the six great Nyingmapa Mother monasteries of Tibet prior to annexation.
The
monastery's full name is Thegchog Namdrol Shedrub Dargyeling, called
"Namdroling" for short. Its initial structure was a temple constructed from bamboo,
covering an area of approximately 80 square feet (7.4 m2).
Carved from the jungle that the India government generously granted Tibetan
exiles, initial challenges included rampaging elephants and other tropical
dangers.
Tibetan Settlement at Kushal Nagar
 |
| Inside the Golden Temple |
The Tibetan
Monastery or the Tibet Camp as locally called Tibetan Settlement which is located
around 6 kms from Kushalnagar town towards Mysore. This Tibetan settlement at
Baylakuppe is the second largest Tibetan settlement outside Tibet. Long rows of multi-coloured Tibetan prayer flags tied
to electricity poles flutter gently in the wind. Signboards have the Tibetan
script in addition to having words in English and Kannada. The houses look
different with their distinctive tiled roofs and as one walks along the
meandering road, one begins to see an increasing number of Tibetan people in
addition to the auto rickshaw drivers that ferry people from the highway into
the camp area.
 |
| Observing the wall-painting at Golden Temple |
It feels pleasantly like having walked into a place
that is peaceful and tranquil, almost hill-station like save for the absence of
hills in the area. There are over 7,000 monks and
students at the Tibetan Monastery. After the Chinese took over Tibet, the
refuges were settled at Bylekuppe near Kushal Nagar and the Budhhist Monastery
was re-established here in 1972. It houses over 7,000 monks and students today.
The monastery not only attracts large number of young Tibetans seeking
enlightenment and education, but also draws huge tourists from all over India
and abroad. It is easy to get inured to the presence of this freshly
painted concrete monstrosity as one turns 180 degrees and stares in awe at the
golden temple and begins to turn the prayer wheels on the outer perimeter of
the monastery before entering the temple complex proper.
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| Prayer Wheels at Temple |
Buddhists
believe that turning prayer wheels that contain prayer scrolls in a clockwise
direction is equivalent to actually saying the prayer. While offering
short-cuts towards the ever so elusive albeit vastly appealing ideal of
Nirvana, it also ensures more inclusivity. The uneducated poor, the
soul-searching tourist, the monk in the maroon robe and the incidental
itinerant, all get an equal share of Karmic brownie points to be redeemed later
for spinning the wheels.
 |
| Prayer wheels |
Bylakuppe
Tibetan settlement consists of a number of small camps close to each other, and
has a lot of monasteries. Most famous among them are the large educational
institution Sera, the smaller Tashilunpo monastery and Namdroling monastery. The
40 ft tall golden Buddha statues are the major attraction of Bylekuppa. The
statues of Budhha, Padmasambhava and Amitayus are the notable ones. The walls
of the temple and the institution are decorated with colourful paintings
depicting gods and demons from Tibetan Buddhist mythology. The altar is
decorated with flowers, candles and incense sticks.
The complex
houses, among other things the temple, a library and rooms to accommodate all
the monks studying there. On a good day, it is possible to not encounter too
many tourists and get a chance to sit inside the temple, close your eyes and
meditate as sparrows chirp and flutter inside, while the delicate smell of
incense hangs in the air. On some days, you can hear the steady hum of chants
as many monks pray in long drawn out powerful choruses.
It was
initially possible to go close to the tall statues within the temple, but a
recent change has cordoned off most parts of the temple, significantly reduce
the accessible area there.
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| Walking around the Golden Temple with Sanjay Rabtten |
A long,
leisurely visit to the Namdroling monastery would take up almost half a day,
though Bylakuppe has more to offer in terms of places to see. Camp 1, located
two kilometers away houses the less popular Sera Mey and Sera Jay monasteries.
To get there, one can take an auto rickshaw or walk for a little over twenty
minutes through alleyways having traditional Tibetan houses, to get a sense of
what a hotter, more tropical version of Lhasa would possibly look like. The
houses of the locals, with the Tibetan script and the multi-coloured flags
hanging by the doorway are as interesting to look at as the majestic monastery
buildings themselves.
At the less
crowded Sera monasteries, it is sometimes possible to sit outside on the steps
and talk in broken Hindi and English (and sometimes Kannada) with monks who are
happy to answer your curious questions about their way of life. They are as
curious in return and the slightest attempt at humour is met with genuine
chuckles and smiles that tell you that you’re welcome to spend some time there.
The food here
comprises mainly of a variety of thukpas (Tibetan flat noodle soup) served in
various flavours, with dim-sums being available occasionally in some shops.
Visitors wary of experimenting with the different taste can always find food on
the state highway or in the tourist complex where south Indian staple fare is
abundantly available. Apart from the calm and peaceful surroundings there are
shopping centers nears the temple which runs under the Tibetan society. The
travelers can by traditional Tibetan items from this shop.
Stupas at Golden Temple
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| Lama Sanjay Rabtten Explain |
A stupa (Sanskrit: m.,स्तूप "heap") is a mound-like or hemispherical structure containing relics (śarīra - typically the remains of Buddhist monks or nuns), and used as a place of meditation. There are Eight Stupas in the Golden Temple. Lama Sanjay Rabtten explained us each and every stupa in the monastery. The Wikipedia narrates the stupa as given below
Lotus Blossom Stupa
Also known as "Stupa of Heaped Lotuses" or
"Birth of the Sugata Stupa," this stupa refers to the birth of Gautama Buddha. "At birth Buddha took seven steps in each
of the four directions" (East,
South, West and North). In each direction lotuses sprang, symbolizing the brahmavihāras: love, compassion, joy and equanimity. The four
steps of the basis of this stupa is circular, and it is decorated with
lotus-petal designs. Occasionally, seven heaped lotus steps are constructed.
These refer to the seven first steps of the Buddha.
Enlightenment
Stupa
Also
known as the Stupa of the
Conquest of Mara. This stupa symbolizes the 35-year-old Buddha's attainment of enlightenment under the bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya, where he conquered worldly temptations and attacks
manifesting in the form of Mara.
Stupa
of Many Doors
Also known as the Stupa
of Many Gates. After reaching enlightenment, the Buddha taught his first
students in a deer-park near Sarnath. The series of doors on each side of the steps
represent the first teachings: the Four Noble Truths, the Six Pāramitās, the Noble Eightfold Path and the Twelve Nidānas.
Stupa of Descent from the God Realm
At 42 years of age, Buddha spent a summer retreat in the Tuṣita Heaven where
his mother had taken rebirth. In order to repay her kindness he taught the
dharma to her reincarnation. Local inhabitants built a stupa like this in Sankassa in
order to commemorate this event. This stupa is characterized by having a
central projection at each side containing a triple ladder or steps.
Stupa
of Great Miracles
Also
known as Stupa of Conquest of
the Tirthikas. This
stupa refers to various miracles performed by the Buddha when he was 50 years
old. Legend claims that he overpowered maras and heretics by engaging them in
intellectual arguments and also by performing miracles. This stupa was raised
by the Lichavi kingdom to commemorate the event.
Stupa
of Reconciliation
This stupa commemorates the Buddha's resolution of a
dispute among the sangha. A stupa in this design was built in the kingdom of Magadha, where the reconciliation occurred. It has four
octagonal steps with equal sides.
Stupa
of Complete Victory
This stupa commemorates Buddha's successful prolonging of
his life by three months. It has only three steps, which are circular and
unadorned.
Stupa
of Nirvana
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| Good Bye to Golden Temple |
This stupa refers to the death of the Buddha, when he was 80 years old. It symbolizes the Buddha's
complete absorption into the highest state of mind. It is bell-shaped and
usually not ornamented.
Conclusion
In the same
day by 3.30 PM we said good –bye to Coorg and it was such an awesome short
trip. As we planned in the beginning we achieved a finest place for our
destination management programme at Coorg. We too could make good relation with
Mr. Sanjay Rabten and further he assured his presence in our programmes at
Coorg.
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