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The Map show the Spice Route to Muziris |
The Muziris
Heritage Project, in Kerala, India, is part of the revival of Spice Route to
Muziris, which lead the modern-day travelers to tread the path once walked by
explorers and traders. The ancient port city of Muziris (Presently known as
Kodungallur) was the hub of the spice trade between Kerala and the rest of the
world more than three millennia ago. Muziris was once the Gate Way to India
for various cultures and races including, Christianity, Muslim, Buddhists,
Arabs, Chinese, Jews, Romans, Portuguese, Dutch even the British and it also gave shelter for the first time to the
Christianity, Jewish and Muslim communities who have enriched the cultural
heritage of Kerala.
In
the Valmiki Ramayana, it is referred
as Murachipattanam; the place
Sugreeva’s sleuths scurried through while looking for the abducted Sita. In his
characteristic flight of romance, Kalidasa meditates on Muchiri’s pepper vine, cardamom, cinnamon,
pepper, saffron, turmeric and outlandish damsels. In Sangam
literature, Muziris becomes Muchiri and
later Muyirikkode. The Greeks and
Romans called it as Muziris, the Jews
called it as Shingly and the
Portuguese called it as Cranganore.
During
the period of the Second Chera Empire (800-1102 A.D.) the Muziris was known as Makotai, Mahodayapuram and Mahodayapattanam,
it was the Capital City of Chera Kingdom. The Capital city comprised of huge buildings,
Cantonment areas, Ganesa temple and an Observatory was built around the
Saivaite temple of Thiruvanchikulam. The city of Mahodayapuram was completely
destroyed in the course of time and no remains of the city are available today
except the Thiruvanchikulam Temple. The rise of other towns such as
Baliapattam, Dharmapattanam, Pantalayani, Kozhikode and Quilon as important
commercial centres might have been one of the reason for the fall of
Mahodayapuram. In the course of time this city lost its importance either as a
capital or as a commercial centre and transformed into a temple ‘Sanketam’
only.
Muziris
was a primeval spice city where world traders met. The merchants of Muziris had
instituted Indo-Greek and Indo-Roman-Egyptian trade channels, dealing in gold
and other metals, pepper and spices, gemstones and textiles from the 1st
century onward and they traded with Jews, Arabs, and Chinese.
The most
defining moment in the history of Spice Route was Portuguese explorer Vasco da
Gama's eventful journey to Malabar. It opened the doors to the New World, laid
the foundation for colonization and caused the rise and fall of mighty empires.
Traversed by explorers and traders of yore, the Spice Route is one of History's
most significant and enigmatic trade routes.
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Thiruvanchikulam Temple |
Along the
historic Spice Route, several places emerged as lively centres of trade
including the ancient port of Muziris and some of the today's tourist hotspots
like Fort Kochi and Kozhikode. These spots stood witness to civilizations being
shaped, wars being fought, vast riches being exchanged and history being
rewritten. Historical records reveal that 31 countries in Europe, Asia and Far
East had spice trade with ancient Kerala, including Afghanistan, Burma, China,
Denmark, Egypt, Jordan, Lebanon, Malaysia, Mozambique, Netherlands, Oman,
Portugal, Jews, Phoenician, Greeks, Romans and Spain etc. A journey along the
Spice Route is a journey to rediscover some of history's magnificent stopovers.
The works of
classical geographers and Tamil poets refer in unequivocal terms to the
phenomenal prosperity of Muziris in the days of Roman trade. Pliny refers to
Muziris as the most important port in India.
He also says that “foreign ships anchored at a distance from the port
and that the cargo was taken into it from the shore in Vallams”. Perhaps, this
is reference to the fact the mouth of harbor was not deep enough for ships to
anchor. The harbor was crowded with ships of all kinds, with large warehouses
and extensive bazaars adjoining it and royal mansions and places of worship in
the interior. The Tamil Poet says “The thriving town of Muchiri where the
beautiful large ships of the Yavanas brining gold come, splashing the white
foam in the waters of the Periyar which belongs to the Chera and return laden
with Pepper”. Paranar also refer to the brisk
trade in pepper at the port of Muziris, “Sacks of pepper are brought from the
houses to the market; the gold received from ships in exchange for articles
sold is brought on shore in barges at Muchiri, where the music of the surging
sea never cease and where Kuttuvan (the Chera King) presents to visitors the
rate products of the seas and mountains.”
As the
quality of the spices from Muziris spread far and beyond the Indian Ocean, a
stream of merchants kept flowing into Kerala and the port gradually became an
unavoidable juncture in the ‘Spice Route.’ While spices were the major
commodity traded, semi-precious stones were bartered as well. Such was the
importance attached to spices and the spice trade that Arabs in later periods
kept the route to Muziris a secret and it was only in 40 AD that the Greek
mariner Hippalus found a direct route to Kerala, purely depending on the
monsoon winds which regularly blowing
across Indian Ocean, after whom came the Romans.
During the
first three centuries of the Christian era the trade between the Roman Empire
and the East became quite extensive both by land water. As above said, after
the discovery of fast route by Hippalus; depending on the Monsoon wind, the
trade between Kerala and the West became too strong. Roman gold and silver were
steadily drained into South India in exchange not only spices, but also Muslim
silks and other costly luxuries. The demand for oriental spices, particularly
pepper, steadily increased among Romans. Pepper was valued by the Romans as highly
as gold and silver. Early in the 5th
Century A.D. when Rome as besieged by Alaric, King of Goths, a part of the
ransom demanded for sparing the imperial city from destruction was 3,00 pounds
of black pepper.
The Old
Testament of Holy Bible too contains plentiful reference to cinnamon and
cardamom, spice indigenous to Kerala. Cinnamon is referred in the Bible as one
of the ingredients of the holy anointing oils and perfumes used in the ritual
of the Tabernacle is given as 1490 B.C. and it is clear from this that cinnamon
was well known to the Hebrews of the day.
Another reference in the Holy Testament to the use of spices is in
connection with the visit of Queen Sheba to King Solomon came to Jerusalem “
with a very great train with camels that bear spices,” and that “ there came no
more such abundance of spices as those that the Queen Sheba gave to King
Solomon”. About 1000 BC King Solomon of Isreal equipped a fleet of ships managed
by the Phoenicians which sailed to the East and “ came to Ophir and fetched
from thence gold”.
Another hallmark of the Muziris region was its warmth and
hospitality towards people of all cultures and religions. The fact that a
tourist would find an ancient Hindu temple dedicated to Goddess Mahakali, in
the same vicinity as the
Cheraman Juma Masjid,
India’s first Muslim mosque, a
Jewish synagogue and the Marthoma Church in Azhikode village is evidence that
Muziris encompassed glorious religious harmony and peace during those days.
After the destruction of the second Temple of Jews in AD 70, they escaped from
Jerusalem because of persecution and sought refuge in Muziris. When St Thomas
the Apostle came to Kerala, bringing Christianity with him, he was welcomed by
a flute-playing Jewish girl.
However,
tragedy struck in 1341, when the profile of the water bodies in the Periyar
River basin on the Malabar Coast underwent a major transformation - and Muziris
dropped off the map due to flood and earthquake. However, the remnants of the
port and its erstwhile glory still remain as reminders of an eventful past at unassuming
village, Pattanam, thirty kilometres north of Kochi. With the decline of
Muziris, Cochin slowly became prominent as the hub of Spice trade and future
interaction with Colonisers from Portugal, Netherlands and Britain.
The
day Trips to “Muziris – The Ancient Spice Route” will definitely stimulate the
contemporary travelers through its outstanding example of old buildings, archaeological sites, the markets,
streets and footways, bridges, and cemeteries and beautiful landscape which
illustrates a significant stage in the human history of Kerala. The area bears
an exceptional testimony to a culture tradition which is fast disappearing.
“Trips”,
is a day trip initiative of a “Ran
De Basanti Network” – a
Sustainable Destination Management Company encourage “Muziris – The Ancient
Spice Route” as a Responsible Tourism
project through which we focus on small-scale
production and selling of traditional crafts and ethnic products, the
participation of local people (especially women) and economic generation
through local business ownership and the use of local home stays, hotels and
resorts. Tourism, when developed in line with the Global
Code of Ethics and
managed responsibly, has the potential to be a key driver of economic
development, a strong force for cultural and ecological preservation and a
contributor to the achievement of the Millennium Development Goals.
“Trips” takes you to the glimpse of this
Historical Capital through a boat cruise.
Understanding Muziris
through a Boat Cruise
The back waters of
Kodungallur seems far removed from the world which most of us inhabit, yet they
are linked to the rest of the world in a very real way and have been for at
least since 3000 years. In earlier times if less so today, these every
waterways were the starting point for the transport of the world renowned
spices of Kerala, which eventually found their way to the distant shores of
Europe and beyond. Formed by the beautiful rivers- Periyar and Chalakudy – is a
networking of Islands surrounded by back waters.
A relaxing boat trip
through these pristine backwaters makes, one realize that this is the most
unpolluted waters in Kerala. In such a
journey one could visit the following remarkable locations. (Boat trip will be
conducted as per the interest of the tourist)
8.45 am
Depart from Cochin and
a 1 hr 15 min journey to the Boat Jetty at Chendamangalam
10:00 am
Arriave at the
chendamanglam Jewish Synagogue.
First Jewish Synagogue
in India
This Jewish synagogue
at Chendamanaglam proved to be the oldest in India and was built in the 16th
Century. It stands one of the best examples of communal harmony and brotherhood
as here the church, Temple, Mosque and Jewish Synagogue all lay together within
a stretch of one square kilometer. (30 minutes. It will be closed on Sundays)
Vypeen Kotta Seminary
One can visit the
remains of the vypeen Kotta Seminary built in the 16th Century by
the Portuguese. Adjacent to the Seminary is an old Syrian Catholic Church,
built in 1201. It is also the site where the first printing press in india came
up.
Paliam Palace
Visit to Paliam Palace
and their life style museum (1hr) (Closed on Monday)
12.45 Pm
15 min drive to
Kodunagllur Kara where we have traditional Kerala Home stead.
Traditional welcome
with jasmine garlands and sandalwood chutti. Intereact with the local community
and enjoy kerala traditional lunch, Sadya, on banana leaves. Interact with
members of women Kudumbahshree group and their Natural Fibre Craft.
2.00 Pm
Natural Fibre Craft
Kodunagllur is well
known for its Natural Fibre Crafts, primarily screwpine craft. Kodunagllur
Screwpine Craft’s cluster is considered a model for nation. “Screwpine of
Kerala” registered under Geographical Indication Registry. This cluster is
certified as “Fair Trad”. Around 3000 artisanal women work in this cluster. This area also facilitates several other
natural fibre crafts. It is thrilling to see the natural fibre craft as an
expression, which is the livelihood security initiative to thousands of
artisanal families.
Here we will show the
live demonstration of how a natural fibre products is made out of screwpine
- Harvesting
screwpine leaves
- Removing
thrones
- Making
into Madi (roll)
- Dried
Screwpine leaves
- Splicing
- Dying
(Coloring the screwpine leaves)
- Making
the products with screwpine leaves
Cheraman Juma Mosque
Being the firswt mosque
in Indian subcontinent Cheraman Juma Mosque was built in 629 A.D. by Malik Bin
Dinar and later renovated a few times.
Thiruvanchikulam Shiva
Temple.
Thiruvanchikulam was
the Head Quarters of Chera Dynasty. It is in this temple, Lord Shiva is
worshipped as “Uma Maheswara”, in contrast to other temples were the Lord’s
consort has a separate sanctum. It is believed that Cheraman Perumal heard
“Shiva Thandavam” when he was meditating in this temple.
Bhagavathi Temple (Optional)
This Temple is very
faimous all over india and is visited by devotees from far and wide. The annual
festival at the temple is extremely unique and nowhere else you will find a
gathering of oracles in one place as you will see here.
Knai Thomman
In the year 345
A.D. Knai Thomman, a rich international
marchent and 72 families from Cana (Middle East), belonging to East Syrian
Church (Chaldean), immigrated to Malabar (Presently Kerala) and established
their colony. Knai Thomman and his people were welcomed by Cheraman Perumal,
the Emperor, and were given permission to settle down in Kodungallur. They
built a town in Kodungallur with a church and 72 houses.
Kottapuram Fort
This Fort was build by
the Portuguese in 1503 A.D. It was captured by the Dutch in 1662. Later the
fort came in to the hands of Travencore Kingdom. This Fort played a vital role
in the history of Central Kerala.
4.30 PM (By Boat)
Fisheries Village
The West Coast of
Kerala is the most productive waters in the world. It paved the way for the
supreme diversity and abundance of both fishes and fisher folk. The indigenous
and conventional methods of fishing are worth watching.
Cage Fish farming is
unique method of culturing fishes of great demand like Asian Sea Bass
(Kalanchi) Perl Spot (Karimeen) etc. These eco-friendly methods of fishing is
providing livelihood security for hundreds of fishers. You can involve in the
use of traditional crafts like country boats and gears like cast nets or
Chinese nets.
Confluence of Periyar
with Arabian Sea.
This confluence was
trhe “Gate Way of India” to the western world. The Greeks, Romans, Phoenicians,
Jews, Chinese, Arabs, Portughese, Dutch, French, English have dreamed of
reaching this spot. It is expected that King Soloman, 3000 years back used to
send his fleets to this area for collecting timber, spices and ivory. Even
Christopher Columbus was in search of this confluence; he then lost the way and
reached North America.
Dolphin Point
Dolphin Point is a
place near the Munambam and Azhikodu beach. Dolphins used to come from the sea
in to the mouth of Periyar river for collecting fish. Here one could
occasionally see the dolphins jumping and collecting fish in the water.
Munambam Harbour.
Munambam Harbour is one
of the most hygienic harbor in Kerala. It’s amazing to see the life inside the
fishing harbor.
Maliankara
This is believed to be
the spot where St. Thomas laid his first footsteps in India. A.D. 52, This
location is now discovered to be a part of “Pattanam” which is proved through
archaeological excavations as the great historical port called “MUZIRIS”.
5.30 Pm
(30 minutes Journey to Muziris (Munakkal
Beach or Cherai Beach)
Cherai Beach
There can be few ways
to adjust to the pace of life than to spend the warning hours of the afternoon
just watching the sun going down at Cherai Beach.
Notes:-
Number
of Persons: 2- 10
Duration:
- Approximately 7-12 hours
Tour
Classification: Moderate Activity/ Wheel chair access
Camera
/Video: - Charges applicable at Synagogue
Dress
Code: - Cotton wear with long pants
Climate:
- Warm and humid in day time and pleasant at Night