Sunday 8 May 2016

“Muziris – The Ancient Spice Route”- A Day with Trips in revisiting the relics of an ancient port town – “The Muziris”


The Map show the Spice Route to Muziris 
The Muziris Heritage Project, in Kerala, India, is part of the revival of Spice Route to Muziris, which lead the modern-day travelers to tread the path once walked by explorers and traders. The ancient port city of Muziris (Presently known as Kodungallur) was the hub of the spice trade between Kerala and the rest of the world more than three millennia ago. Muziris was once the Gate Way to India for various cultures and races including, Christianity, Muslim, Buddhists, Arabs, Chinese, Jews, Romans, Portuguese, Dutch even the British and it also gave shelter for the first time to the Christianity, Jewish and Muslim communities who have enriched the cultural heritage of Kerala.
In the Valmiki Ramayana, it is referred as Murachipattanam; the place Sugreeva’s sleuths scurried through while looking for the abducted Sita. In his characteristic flight of romance, Kalidasa meditates on Muchiri’s pepper vine, cardamom, cinnamon, pepper, saffron, turmeric and outlandish damsels. In Sangam literature, Muziris becomes Muchiri and later Muyirikkode. The Greeks and Romans called it as Muziris, the Jews called it as Shingly and the Portuguese called it as Cranganore.
During the period of the Second Chera Empire (800-1102 A.D.) the Muziris was known as Makotai, Mahodayapuram and Mahodayapattanam, it was the Capital City of Chera Kingdom.  The Capital city comprised of huge buildings, Cantonment areas, Ganesa temple and an Observatory was built around the Saivaite temple of Thiruvanchikulam. The city of Mahodayapuram was completely destroyed in the course of time and no remains of the city are available today except the Thiruvanchikulam Temple. The rise of other towns such as Baliapattam, Dharmapattanam, Pantalayani, Kozhikode and Quilon as important commercial centres might have been one of the reason for the fall of Mahodayapuram. In the course of time this city lost its importance either as a capital or as a commercial centre and transformed into a temple ‘Sanketam’ only.
Muziris was a primeval spice city where world traders met. The merchants of Muziris had instituted Indo-Greek and Indo-Roman-Egyptian trade channels, dealing in gold and other metals, pepper and spices, gemstones and textiles from the 1st century onward and they traded with Jews, Arabs, and Chinese.
The most defining moment in the history of Spice Route was Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama's eventful journey to Malabar. It opened the doors to the New World, laid the foundation for colonization and caused the rise and fall of mighty empires. Traversed by explorers and traders of yore, the Spice Route is one of History's most significant and enigmatic trade routes.
Thiruvanchikulam Temple

Along the historic Spice Route, several places emerged as lively centres of trade including the ancient port of Muziris and some of the today's tourist hotspots like Fort Kochi and Kozhikode. These spots stood witness to civilizations being shaped, wars being fought, vast riches being exchanged and history being rewritten. Historical records reveal that 31 countries in Europe, Asia and Far East had spice trade with ancient Kerala, including Afghanistan, Burma, China, Denmark, Egypt, Jordan, Lebanon, Malaysia, Mozambique, Netherlands, Oman, Portugal, Jews, Phoenician, Greeks, Romans and Spain etc. A journey along the Spice Route is a journey to rediscover some of history's magnificent stopovers.

The works of classical geographers and Tamil poets refer in unequivocal terms to the phenomenal prosperity of Muziris in the days of Roman trade. Pliny refers to Muziris as the most important port in India.  He also says that “foreign ships anchored at a distance from the port and that the cargo was taken into it from the shore in Vallams”. Perhaps, this is reference to the fact the mouth of harbor was not deep enough for ships to anchor. The harbor was crowded with ships of all kinds, with large warehouses and extensive bazaars adjoining it and royal mansions and places of worship in the interior. The Tamil Poet says “The thriving town of Muchiri where the beautiful large ships of the Yavanas brining gold come, splashing the white foam in the waters of the Periyar which belongs to the Chera and return laden with Pepper”.  Paranar also refer to the brisk trade in pepper at the port of Muziris, “Sacks of pepper are brought from the houses to the market; the gold received from ships in exchange for articles sold is brought on shore in barges at Muchiri, where the music of the surging sea never cease and where Kuttuvan (the Chera King) presents to visitors the rate products of the seas and mountains.”

As the quality of the spices from Muziris spread far and beyond the Indian Ocean, a stream of merchants kept flowing into Kerala and the port gradually became an unavoidable juncture in the ‘Spice Route.’ While spices were the major commodity traded, semi-precious stones were bartered as well. Such was the importance attached to spices and the spice trade that Arabs in later periods kept the route to Muziris a secret and it was only in 40 AD that the Greek mariner Hippalus found a direct route to Kerala, purely depending on the monsoon winds which  regularly blowing across Indian Ocean, after whom came the Romans.
During the first three centuries of the Christian era the trade between the Roman Empire and the East became quite extensive both by land water. As above said, after the discovery of fast route by Hippalus; depending on the Monsoon wind, the trade between Kerala and the West became too strong. Roman gold and silver were steadily drained into South India in exchange not only spices, but also Muslim silks and other costly luxuries. The demand for oriental spices, particularly pepper, steadily increased among Romans. Pepper was valued by the Romans as highly as gold and silver.  Early in the 5th Century A.D. when Rome as besieged by Alaric, King of Goths, a part of the ransom demanded for sparing the imperial city from destruction was 3,00 pounds of black pepper.  
The Old Testament of Holy Bible too contains plentiful reference to cinnamon and cardamom, spice indigenous to Kerala. Cinnamon is referred in the Bible as one of the ingredients of the holy anointing oils and perfumes used in the ritual of the Tabernacle is given as 1490 B.C. and it is clear from this that cinnamon was well known to the Hebrews of the day.  Another reference in the Holy Testament to the use of spices is in connection with the visit of Queen Sheba to King Solomon came to Jerusalem “ with a very great train with camels that bear spices,” and that “ there came no more such abundance of spices as those that the Queen Sheba gave to King Solomon”. About 1000 BC King Solomon of Isreal equipped a fleet of ships managed by the Phoenicians which sailed to the East and “ came to Ophir and fetched from thence gold”.
Another hallmark of the Muziris region was its warmth and hospitality towards people of all cultures and religions. The fact that a tourist would find an ancient Hindu temple dedicated to Goddess Mahakali, in the same vicinity as theCheraman Juma Masjid, India’s first Muslim mosque, a Jewish synagogue and the Marthoma Church in Azhikode village is evidence that Muziris encompassed glorious religious harmony and peace during those days. After the destruction of the second Temple of Jews in AD 70, they escaped from Jerusalem because of persecution and sought refuge in Muziris. When St Thomas the Apostle came to Kerala, bringing Christianity with him, he was welcomed by a flute-playing Jewish girl.
Cheraman Juma Masjid, India’s first Muslim mosque
However, tragedy struck in 1341, when the profile of the water bodies in the Periyar River basin on the Malabar Coast underwent a major transformation - and Muziris dropped off the map due to flood and earthquake. However, the remnants of the port and its erstwhile glory still remain as reminders of an eventful past at unassuming village, Pattanam, thirty kilometres north of Kochi. With the decline of Muziris, Cochin slowly became prominent as the hub of Spice trade and future interaction with Colonisers from Portugal, Netherlands and Britain.
The day Trips to “Muziris – The Ancient Spice Route” will definitely stimulate the contemporary travelers through its outstanding example of old buildings, archaeological sites, the markets, streets and footways, bridges, and cemeteries and beautiful landscape which illustrates a significant stage in the human history of Kerala. The area bears an exceptional testimony to a culture tradition which is fast disappearing.
Trips”, is a day trip initiative of a “Ran De Basanti Network” – a Sustainable Destination Management Company encourage “Muziris – The Ancient Spice Route” as a Responsible Tourism project through which we focus on small-scale production and selling of traditional crafts and ethnic products, the participation of local people (especially women) and economic generation through local business ownership and the use of local home stays, hotels and resorts. Tourism, when developed in line with the Global Code of Ethics and managed responsibly, has the potential to be a key driver of economic development, a strong force for cultural and ecological preservation and a contributor to the achievement of the Millennium Development Goals.
“Trips” takes you to the glimpse of this Historical Capital through a boat cruise.

Understanding Muziris through a Boat Cruise

The back waters of Kodungallur seems far removed from the world which most of us inhabit, yet they are linked to the rest of the world in a very real way and have been for at least since 3000 years. In earlier times if less so today, these every waterways were the starting point for the transport of the world renowned spices of Kerala, which eventually found their way to the distant shores of Europe and beyond. Formed by the beautiful rivers- Periyar and Chalakudy – is a networking of Islands surrounded by back waters.
A relaxing boat trip through these pristine backwaters makes, one realize that this is the most unpolluted waters in Kerala.  In such a journey one could visit the following remarkable locations. (Boat trip will be conducted as per the interest of the tourist)

8.45 am
Depart from Cochin and a 1 hr 15 min journey to the Boat Jetty at Chendamangalam

10:00  am
Arriave at the chendamanglam Jewish Synagogue.
First Jewish Synagogue in India
This Jewish synagogue at Chendamanaglam proved to be the oldest in India and was built in the 16th Century. It stands one of the best examples of communal harmony and brotherhood as here the church, Temple, Mosque and Jewish Synagogue all lay together within a stretch of one square kilometer. (30 minutes. It will be closed on Sundays) 

Vypeen Kotta Seminary
One can visit the remains of the vypeen Kotta Seminary built in the 16th Century by the Portuguese. Adjacent to the Seminary is an old Syrian Catholic Church, built in 1201. It is also the site where the first printing press in india came up.

Paliam Palace
Visit to Paliam Palace and their life style museum (1hr) (Closed on Monday)
12.45 Pm
15 min drive to Kodunagllur Kara where we have traditional Kerala Home stead.
Traditional welcome with jasmine garlands and sandalwood chutti. Intereact with the local community and enjoy kerala traditional lunch, Sadya, on banana leaves. Interact with members of women Kudumbahshree group and their Natural Fibre Craft.

2.00 Pm
Natural Fibre Craft
Kodunagllur is well known for its Natural Fibre Crafts, primarily screwpine craft. Kodunagllur Screwpine Craft’s cluster is considered a model for nation. “Screwpine of Kerala” registered under Geographical Indication Registry. This cluster is certified as “Fair Trad”. Around 3000 artisanal women work in this cluster.  This area also facilitates several other natural fibre crafts. It is thrilling to see the natural fibre craft as an expression, which is the livelihood security initiative to thousands of artisanal families.
Here we will show the live demonstration of how a natural fibre products is made out of screwpine
  1. Harvesting screwpine leaves
  2. Removing thrones
  3. Making into Madi (roll)
  4. Dried Screwpine leaves
  5. Splicing
  6. Dying (Coloring the screwpine leaves)
  7. Making the products with screwpine leaves

Cheraman Juma Mosque
Being the firswt mosque in Indian subcontinent Cheraman Juma Mosque was built in 629 A.D. by Malik Bin Dinar and later renovated a few times.

Thiruvanchikulam Shiva Temple.
Thiruvanchikulam was the Head Quarters of Chera Dynasty. It is in this temple, Lord Shiva is worshipped as “Uma Maheswara”, in contrast to other temples were the Lord’s consort has a separate sanctum. It is believed that Cheraman Perumal heard “Shiva Thandavam” when he was meditating in this temple.

Bhagavathi Temple (Optional)
This Temple is very faimous all over india and is visited by devotees from far and wide. The annual festival at the temple is extremely unique and nowhere else you will find a gathering of oracles in one place as you will see here.

Knai Thomman
In the year 345 A.D.  Knai Thomman, a rich international marchent and 72 families from Cana (Middle East), belonging to East Syrian Church (Chaldean), immigrated to Malabar (Presently Kerala) and established their colony. Knai Thomman and his people were welcomed by Cheraman Perumal, the Emperor, and were given permission to settle down in Kodungallur. They built a town in Kodungallur with a church and 72 houses.

Kottapuram Fort
This Fort was build by the Portuguese in 1503 A.D. It was captured by the Dutch in 1662. Later the fort came in to the hands of Travencore Kingdom. This Fort played a vital role in the history of Central Kerala.

4.30 PM (By Boat)
Fisheries Village
The West Coast of Kerala is the most productive waters in the world. It paved the way for the supreme diversity and abundance of both fishes and fisher folk. The indigenous and conventional methods of fishing are worth watching.
Cage Fish farming is unique method of culturing fishes of great demand like Asian Sea Bass (Kalanchi) Perl Spot (Karimeen) etc. These eco-friendly methods of fishing is providing livelihood security for hundreds of fishers. You can involve in the use of traditional crafts like country boats and gears like cast nets or Chinese nets.

Confluence of Periyar with Arabian Sea.
This confluence was trhe “Gate Way of India” to the western world. The Greeks, Romans, Phoenicians, Jews, Chinese, Arabs, Portughese, Dutch, French, English have dreamed of reaching this spot. It is expected that King Soloman, 3000 years back used to send his fleets to this area for collecting timber, spices and ivory. Even Christopher Columbus was in search of this confluence; he then lost the way and reached North America.

Dolphin Point
Dolphin Point is a place near the Munambam and Azhikodu beach. Dolphins used to come from the sea in to the mouth of Periyar river for collecting fish. Here one could occasionally see the dolphins jumping and collecting fish in the water.

Munambam Harbour.
Munambam Harbour is one of the most hygienic harbor in Kerala. It’s amazing to see the life inside the fishing harbor.

Maliankara
This is believed to be the spot where St. Thomas laid his first footsteps in India. A.D. 52, This location is now discovered to be a part of “Pattanam” which is proved through archaeological excavations as the great historical port called “MUZIRIS”.
5.30 Pm (30 minutes  Journey to Muziris (Munakkal Beach or Cherai Beach)

Cherai Beach
There can be few ways to adjust to the pace of life than to spend the warning hours of the afternoon just watching the sun going down at Cherai Beach.

Notes:-
Number of Persons: 2- 10
Duration: - Approximately 7-12 hours
Tour Classification: Moderate Activity/ Wheel chair access
Camera /Video: - Charges applicable at Synagogue
Dress Code: - Cotton wear with long pants
Climate: - Warm and humid in day time and pleasant at Night


                                


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